Tagliatelle, Tortellini & Timeless Traditions

After a restful day in Bologna, we hit the road again under a grey sky, heading toward Modena. The journey between these two cities isn’t particularly remarkable in itself, but we’re happy to keep moving along this route - it keeps leading us to some truly beautiful cities. The last two days have revolved around two essential pillars of Italian life: food and culture.

In Bologna, we visited the oldest university in the Western world. Inside, we discovered incredible coats of arms representing different student societies - honestly, Harry Potter’s writer didn’t make anything up! We also explored the basilica, wandered through the pinacoteca filled with stunning paintings, and strolled along streets lined with distinctive arcades that give the city so much of its character. And of course, we kept sampling new gelato flavors along the way.

We indulged in the famous tagliatelle al ragù - the REAL Bolognese - and tortellini, which also originate from here.

Today, on our way to Modena, we had the extraordinary experience of visiting a farm that produces traditional balsamic vinegar of Modena. What a discovery!! Did you know that REAL balsamic vinegar from Modena requires between 12 and 25 years of slow evaporation in small wooden barrels? The grapes are hand-harvested and pressed, then the juice is cooked at 90°C to reduce it. After that, it’s transferred into barrels for acetic fermentation. There’s a whole set of strict rules: only six types of wood are allowed for the barrels, and each year a portion is moved into a smaller barrel as the vinegar thickens. The barrels are always kept half full, with a small opening at the top to allow evaporation. They’re stored under rooftops to encourage evaporation during the hot summer months (often around 40°C!).

The largest barrel contains the most recent batch, while the smallest holds vinegar that has aged for at least 12 years. From that final barrel, only about one liter - just 10% - is harvested each year.

In short, it’s an incredibly long process that requires patience and true craftsmanship. Needless to say, the balsamic vinegar you find in supermarkets is never made this way - which also explains the price difference. We tasted a 25-year-old vinegar and… how can I put this? It’s an unforgettable sweet-and-sour experience, bursting with complex, incredible flavors. 115 Euro for a 100mL small bottle. 

Tomorrow, we’re driving on to Parma. We’re sticking with the theme of food - which, after all, is one of the reasons why we chose Italy.