It’s official! We’ve reached the end of our cycling journey across Italy and France! To see the full route we completed, click here.

From Montélimar, we rode a long day all the way to Barbières, northeast of Valence. It was another truly lovely day, still filled with the sweet scent of blooming acacias. That said, a third consecutive day of over 90 km might have been a bit too ambitious. We arrived completely exhausted at our friends Laurent and Delphine’s place in Barbières. So instead of setting off again the next day, we treated ourselves to a well-deserved rest day with them.

On Friday, May 1st, we got back on the road, aiming for Lake Paladru, partly by train, then finishing the journey by bike. The arrival was incredibly exhilarating. It felt a bit like crossing the finish line of a trail race or a marathon, that moment when you finally reach a goal you’ve been thinking about for so long. The weekend ended on a high note with a fantastic celebration surrounded by friends, beautifully organized by Cécile and Boud.

And just like that, the journey came to an end. We finished happy, worn out, and completely fulfilled.

We were lucky to complete this trip without any major issues-  no injuries, no technical problems - just pure enjoyment from start to finish. We also learned a lot about organizing this kind of adventure, lessons we’ll definitely carry into future trips. For example, we carried all our camping gear… and barely used it! Next time, we’ll prioritize traveling lighter to make riding more comfortable, and opt for proper accommodation rather than camping. To keep our energy up over the long run, we’ll also plan shorter stages and include more rest days off the bike. After five intense weeks of cycling, we can definitely feel a deep, lingering fatigue that will require a few days of complete rest. Other than that, we wouldn’t change much at all.

I’d like to warmly thank all our loyal readers and friends who supported us and followed along with our adventure. We truly felt carried by your encouragement.

I’m not entirely sure what I was looking for when I set off on this journey, but I found so many things along the way.

First, a complete disconnection from everyday life. A real break that fills you with fresh energy before returning to daily routines at home and at work.

Time to think. Something we rarely allow ourselves, and never for long. The beauty of having so much time is that you can really go deeper.

The satisfaction of completing a physical challenge and feeling truly in tune with your body.

The joy of discovery, and a mind full of beautiful images. A reminder to return to basics: you don’t need much to live well and be happy.

And finally, an incredible time as a couple. We had never spent so much uninterrupted time together, 24/7, for so long, and it was truly wonderful. So many conversations, shared reflections about the future, and plenty of laughter.

In short, a fabulous adventure. To more!

What a big day on the bikes today: 100 km in a single stretch! We rode from Avignon to Montélimar, the town famous for its nougat, following the ViaRhôna. This wonderful cycling path runs all the way from Lake Geneva down to the Mediterranean, tracing the Rhône River the whole way. We’d already explored a section of it before, heading south from Montélimar to Arles with the kids - back when they were still delighted to come along on our cycling adventures. It brought back such lovely memories. That said, the Rhône Valley itself isn’t the most breathtaking scenery out there.

Still, it was one of those blissfully simple days: no mental load about directions, no cars anywhere nearby, just following the path from morning till evening. The kind of long, steady ride that really clears your head. Usually, when I cycle 100 km, I end up completely exhausted and sore all over. But today felt different. I can tell we’ve built up real stamina after so many days in the saddle. We’re eating plenty, sleeping deeply, and our metabolism has clearly adapted. At some point, we’ll have to gently readjust when we stop exercising this much!

Tomorrow, we’ll keep rolling along the ViaRhôna as far as Valence, before turning toward the Isère region. Our next stop: visiting our friends Delphine and Laurent, and we’re really looking forward to seeing them again. If everything keeps going as smoothly as it has so far, we’ll be right on schedule to arrive this Friday at Lake Paladru for Cécile and Boud’s big party. 🎉

It’s pure delight. Acacia blossoms are incredibly fragrant, filling the air with a soft, sweet perfume that sometimes brings orange blossom to mind. Today, we spent a good part of the day cycling beneath acacia trees in full bloom - absolutely magical.

After a wonderful weekend in Aix-en-Provence with Aude and Joel (not entirely relaxing, since we still managed a beautiful three-hour hike!), we got back on the road for our fifth and final week. Little by little, we’re making our way toward our ultimate destination: Lake Paladru.

Today’s ride took us from Aix to Avignon, the City of Popes. We soaked up the very essence of Provence: olive trees, vineyards, pine forests. At one point, we even crossed paths with a large wild boar on the road! And all along the way, we were wrapped in that dreamy acacia scent.

Since arriving in France, the journey has felt a bit less “exotic,” in the sense that we’re no longer discovering a culture different from our own. But it remains just as captivating, thanks to the incredible diversity of landscapes we’re passing through.

Only a few more days left on the bikes. Five weeks feels both long and fleeting at the same time. Part of us feels like we could keep going forever… and yet, another life is waiting for us back home. This little escape has lasted just long enough, and we’re starting to think about the return, about everything that awaits us.

This was our first time traveling for so long, a bit of a test in many ways. And what Pascal and I have realized through this journey is simple: when our working lives come to an end, cycling trips won’t just be a temporary escape. They’ll become part of our everyday life. And we can’t wait for more adventures like this. 🚴🏼🚴🏻‍♀️✨

Hike with Aude and Joel

Riding between Aix and Avignon

Today was an absolutely exceptional day on the bike. We rode 61 km of uninterrupted cycle paths, often far from busy roads, stretching all the way between Cavalaire-sur-Mer and Toulon. The route follows a former railway line that has been beautifully transformed into a cycling path. Along the way, we were treated to stunning views overlooking the Mediterranean Sea, weaving through pine trees and eucalyptus groves. For anyone looking for a truly lovely cycling itinerary, this one is an absolute must.

To top it all off, we hopped onto a small boat with our bikes to cross Toulon’s harbor and reach La Seyne-sur-Mer. Tonight, we’re camping in the Janas forest. We could have cycled the whole way, of course, but we have this little tradition of always including at least one boat ride with our bikes on our cycling trips. So naturally, we kept it alive today.

The transformation of this old railway into a cycle path has created a genuine living space, perfectly integrated into the surrounding nature and local environment, full of flowers and greenery. It’s shared by joggers, rollerbladers, walkers, and cyclists alike. The path connects multiple towns seamlessly over dozens of kilometers, which must have required real coordination and shared vision to bring such a project to life. At one point, I found myself thinking that someone, somewhere, had this truly brilliant idea, and actually made it happen. Just like the wonderful cycle path in Nice, or the decision to ban trucks from passing through the city of Nice. It really shows that local leaders can make thoughtful, impactful choices when it comes to urban planning. If only there were more of them.

Tomorrow, we’ll leave the Mediterranean coast behind and head to Aix-en-Provence by train and bike, where we’ll spend Sunday with our friends Aude and Joel. Very much looking forward!!

The Mediterranean Sea truly lives up to its name. We soaked in its endless blue all day long, under a brilliantly shining sun. After leaving Cannes, we rode past the stunning Esterel massif, with its sublime red rocks that make the blue of the sea stand out even more vividly. The coastline around Saint-Raphaël is dotted with countless little coves, each one more beautiful than the last.

The seaside road had plenty of ups and downs, but we’ve noticed it’s getting easier to handle them now. After nearly four weeks on our bikes, that probably explains it.

All in all, it was a long and magnificent day by the sea, ending in Cavalaire-sur-Mer. Tomorrow, we’ll continue on to Toulon. From there, we’ll leave the coast behind and begin heading back up toward the Rhône Valley, on our way to our final destination: Lake Paladru.

My heart can’t quite decide. Truth is, you can’t really say one is better than the other. When you cross the border by road, the contrast between the two countries jumps out within just a few meters: the roads, the façades, the signage, the shops, and everything inside them. You feel a little sad to leave behind gelato, pinsa, and so many other delights, but just as happy to be reunited with flaky croissants, crusty baguettes, and plenty more. But claiming that one side has the best wine, the finest cheeses, or the greatest football… oh dear, that’s a slippery slope best avoided! Every place has its strengths and its quirks. There’s no “better” place in the world - just different treasures to enjoy. The key is to appreciate the good things each country and each culture brings.

As for ice cream, I always come back to… Fior di Latte. Just once I switched it up with stracciatella, but I kept cioccolato, which is very often my second choice. Aurel and Hélène, you nailed it! I expected nothing less from you 🤪 To be fair, it wasn’t easy. White-looking ice cream could be so many things: panna, yogurt, vanilla… Pistacchio and nocciola, meanwhile, are Pascal’s favorites. So everybody was right somehow. In any case, bravo and thank you for playing along, we had a great laugh, and now we know the comments section works perfectly 🤪

After a restful day in Cuneo, we took the train through the Alps from Cuneo to Ventimiglia, then crossed the border into Menton. In Menton, we got to see our friend Joel, who works there! Menton is delightful: colorful and very Italian in spirit. People still speak and eat as they do just across the border.

Today, Wednesday, we got back on our bikes for the ride from Menton to Cannes, where we’re spending the evening with another friend, Anne. It makes us so happy to use this trip as a chance to catch up with friends along the way!

The road along the Côte d’Azur is absolutely stunning. The beginning, just after Menton, was a bit challenging with some lovely rolling hills. Passing through Monaco was quite something. We found ourselves right in the middle of preparations for this weekend’s historic Formula 1 Grand Prix! We even rode along parts of the circuit and saw a few F1 cars getting ready. That said… Monaco is honestly quite ugly. Towering buildings, a bit like Dubai, that scar the landscape. And worst of all for cyclists: no bike lanes, spiral climbs through tunnels, and cars that think they own the road.

Then suddenly - paradise for cyclists. From Nice to Cannes, the coast is lined with a continuous double bike lane: smooth, separate from the road, with its own lights and proper signage! I’d never even seen speed limits on a bike path before (10 or 20 km/h in some places), so that all kinds of bikes can ride comfortably. It’s a dream!

Tomorrow we continue along the Côte d’Azur under beautiful sunshine 🚴🏼🚴🏻‍♀️

First and foremost, a huge thank you for all the ❤️ 👍 and 🔥 on our posts - it truly means the world to us! Pascal is also now sure it’s all working properly 🤪

We joke, but these new blog features are no small thing! Pascal tells me that normally this kind of development would take a few weeks, but thanks to AI, it all came together in just a few days. How cool is that?

We’ve made it to Cuneo on Sunday, in the very end of the valley, surrounded by snow-capped Alps. It involved quite a bit of climbing… and we’ll admit, after lunch the idea of hopping on a train did briefly cross our minds since we were pretty wiped out! But only for a moment. We got back in the saddle after eating delicious Pinsa, and off we went! 🚴🏼🚴🏻‍♀️

We arrived in a charming little city that feels like a pocket-sized Turin, with a grid of lovely streets, a big square main piazza Galimberti (neoclassical style), and colourful facades all around. We ended up in a gorgeous little apartment located right above… a gelateria. Clearly, the universe was sending us a sign, and that’s what sealed the deal: we’re taking a rest day here in Cuneo! 🍦

On Sunday, the roads were full of weekend cyclists. Every time we’d pass each other, we’d exchange a little wave and a cheerful “Ciao!” or “Salve!”, like old friends. There’s something wonderful about that sense of community among fellow bikers. 

This marks the end of the Italian leg of our journey. We’ll be hopping on the train on Tuesday from Cuneo to cross the Alps, an impassable wall for our heavily loaded bikes, all the way to Ventimiglia on the mediterranean coast, and then on to Menton, France.

Anne, the true friend that she is, reassured me that the ice cream on the French Riviera is also wonderful. Crisis averted, we’re going to be just fine! 😄 That said, I do wonder whether I’ll still find my favourite Italian flavours there…

And speaking of which, here comes a little quiz! 🎉

To test the brand new comment feature on the blog (yes, you can now leave comments, go ahead and try it!), and to see who’s been paying close attention, I have a question for you:

👉🏼 « What is Séverine’s favourite ice cream flavour? »

⚠️ Rules: your answer (as a comment) must be written in Italian.

Those of you who’ve been following the blog closely will have a clear advantage, and here’s a small hint: i failed to choose it only once. 

I’ll be announcing the winner (or winners!) in a few days 😊​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​

A smooth and sunny day led us all the way to the lovely little town of Bra. We were lucky enough to stay in the Tarano Valley, nice and flat (what a relief!), surrounded on all sides by rolling vineyards.

At the far end of the valley, entire stretches of land are covered with hazelnut trees - the famous Piedmont hazelnuts. Bra itself is the birthplace of the “Slow Food” movement, and you can really feel it here: a deep appreciation for good food and good wine is part of everyday life. Everything feels charming and idyllic… until the moment you spot farmers spraying pesticides, half of which seems to end up straight in the river. Organic or not, those hazelnuts probably carry a bit of everything in the soil…

Cycling means constantly making decisions and adapting to the unexpected. There’s always something: a road closed for construction, a path blocked by a rockfall… and then you’re left choosing between options. Do we take a long detour? Head up into the vineyards? Try the flat path that’s not really suitable for bikes? Will there be dogs along the way? How long is this rough stretch going to last? Do we keep going or turn back?

It’s not easy to decide when you don’t have all the information. We’ve had to turn around at times, or push forward and hope for the best - sometimes reassured that it does go through after all. A lot of it comes down to luck. In the end, just like in life, good decisions depend on having the right information and being able to assess it. 

We carry on our journey, happy and feeling strong. These are our last few days in Italy before crossing into France along the Mediterranean coast. I’ll definitely need to find a worthy substitute for Italian gelato to keep me motivated once we get there!!!

The blog has a new feature from now on! After a lot of gentle nagging, Pascal finally did it. You can now react to posts with hearts, thumbs up, and more (just below the pictures). So please go ahead and use them generously. It really means a lot to us to see your reactions, and it makes me feel a little less like I’m talking to myself. The possibility to comment will even be coming later on.

So how would I describe today? I’d say: authentic. That’s actually the word ChatGPT used for the town of Asti, and it fits perfectly. We’ve left behind the flat agricultural plains of the Po and entered the peach and apple orchards, vineyard-covered landscapes of Piedmont. And with that, of course, come… the hills. Cycling is then getting truly… authentic 🚵🏻‍♀️🚵🏼. Our legs are definitely feeling it tonight. Hauling our heavy panniers up those hills is no joke. But at least it makes the Barbera d’Asti feel well earned. And I have absolutely no guilt about eating all this gelato.

Asti is a “chill” city, as my teenage kids would say. With the relaxed vibe of a Friday evening and the gentle spring weather, people gather on terraces to enjoy aperitivo. There are very few tourists here, which makes it even nicer. So we did the same, sampling Moscato d’Asti and Barbera wine. I also discovered that Asti has its own Palio, just like Siena, held in September. And yet another stunning cathedral. Every town we pass through continues to amaze us with its buildings, towers, and churches.

We’ll keep heading through Piedmont, getting as close as we can to the Alps. We’ll cross them by train, though, because despite all our determination, our bikes are simply too heavy for serious climbing.

What a lovely day on the bike! No jaw dropping scenery today, but plenty of warm sunshine and smooth, easy roads with very little traffic. At moments it even felt like we had the whole wide Po Valley to ourselves, surrounded by open farmland and quiet horizons. One of those days where you just ride, clear your mind, and let the kilometers roll by. We left Lombardy behind and crossed into Piedmont, making our way to Alessandria.

It has now been two and a half weeks since we set off on this cycling journey, and we are only halfway through. I have never traveled this long on the road before, and I was curious to see how it would feel. So far, everything is going beautifully. We are lucky to be in good shape, with no pain and nothing broken. We sleep amazingly well - deep and long hours. The regular, active part makes us feel super healthy. Fingers crossed it stays that way. What I enjoy most is having these long days where the only goal is to move forward, almost like a kind of joyful meditation. This is one of the things I was looking for with this trip: to disconnect and create a completely different rhythm of life.

Without even realizing it, we have settled into a natural routine. Tasks seem to fall into place on their own and repeat day after day. Pascal goes out in the morning to pick up croissants, or rather « brioche », since they are quite different from the French ones. In the evening, he plans the next day’s route, while I write the blog posts. We have also developed little habits when it comes to packing and unpacking our things. Everything has its place and its order. This goes in the left pocket, that fits perfectly over there, always in the same sequence. It is funny to see how the brain creates these small systems to become more efficient, repeating tasks so we can focus on something else. After a few days, the journey feels lighter and more enjoyable because we think less and less about the logistics.

We have plenty of time to chat about everything and nothing, and to laugh a lot too. It feels really special to give ourselves this kind of time. 

Tomorrow we leave the Po Valley behind and head into the rolling hills and vineyards of Piedmont, getting closer to the Alps.

We continued our journey across the Italian “boot” and entered the Lombardy region under bright sunshine. Yesterday, on the other hand, was rather dull and rainy. We hopped on a train for a short stretch to dodge the worst of the weather, leaving Emilia-Romagna behind, then cycled a bit to reach Piacenza. Today, Wednesday, we rode from Piacenza to Pavia along pleasant, easygoing roads.

The highlight of the day was visiting the Certosa di Pavia. I was genuinely surprised to learn that the Carthusian order spread beyond France. The monastery is no longer in use, but the building remains absolutely stunning. The tradition of making herbal liqueur is still alive - only here it uses local herbs and goes by a different name than the famous French Chartreuse.

Over the past few days, we’ve met many people traveling on foot along the Via Francigena, as it follows a route quite similar to the one we took by bike between Parma and Pavia. The Via Francigena is a historic pilgrimage trail stretching all the way from England, crossing France and Italy down to Puglia - nearly 3,000 kilometers in total.

Not a day goes by without someone asking where we’re travelling from or where we’re headed, often with genuine curiosity and a spark in their eyes. Whether on foot or by other means, I guess humans have always been fascinated by travel.

We couldn’t have sunshine all the time, right? Today was one of those “what a struggle” kind of days - rain pouring down, and paths that were… let’s say, far from ideal. But hey, we’ll just say we did it to keep moving forward.

To start with, we didn’t really have a choice: either an impassable highway or a trail that felt more suited for mountain bikes than ours. Mud everywhere, mosquitoes buzzing, and tree trunks blocking the way… you get the picture. After finally making it through that lovely section, we ended up on a long road packed with trucks. Quite the contrast!

Oh, and quick note about the gear - Pascal insists I mention that overshoes from the brand GripGrab are absolutely awesome 🤪

Cycling really keeps you humble: there’s often a big gap between what the map promises and what the terrain actually delivers. We get surprised all the time. Google, Komoot, and the rest still don’t have perfect algorithms to tell whether a route is truly bike-friendly!

Our bikes were so caked in mud that we ended up going through a car wash and blasting them clean with a pressure washer.

But the day ended on a high note in Parma: a visit to the stunning cathedral, followed by a well-deserved treat - great wine, Parma ham, Parmesan… and the longest wine list I’ve ever seen in my life. 

After a restful day in Bologna, we hit the road again under a grey sky, heading toward Modena. The journey between these two cities isn’t particularly remarkable in itself, but we’re happy to keep moving along this route - it keeps leading us to some truly beautiful cities. The last two days have revolved around two essential pillars of Italian life: food and culture.

In Bologna, we visited the oldest university in the Western world. Inside, we discovered incredible coats of arms representing different student societies - honestly, Harry Potter’s writer didn’t make anything up! We also explored the basilica, wandered through the pinacoteca filled with stunning paintings, and strolled along streets lined with distinctive arcades that give the city so much of its character. And of course, we kept sampling new gelato flavors along the way.

We indulged in the famous tagliatelle al ragù - the REAL Bolognese - and tortellini, which also originate from here.

Today, on our way to Modena, we had the extraordinary experience of visiting a farm that produces traditional balsamic vinegar of Modena. What a discovery!! Did you know that REAL balsamic vinegar from Modena requires between 12 and 25 years of slow evaporation in small wooden barrels? The grapes are hand-harvested and pressed, then the juice is cooked at 90°C to reduce it. After that, it’s transferred into barrels for acetic fermentation. There’s a whole set of strict rules: only six types of wood are allowed for the barrels, and each year a portion is moved into a smaller barrel as the vinegar thickens. The barrels are always kept half full, with a small opening at the top to allow evaporation. They’re stored under rooftops to encourage evaporation during the hot summer months (often around 40°C!).

The largest barrel contains the most recent batch, while the smallest holds vinegar that has aged for at least 12 years. From that final barrel, only about one liter - just 10% - is harvested each year.

In short, it’s an incredibly long process that requires patience and true craftsmanship. Needless to say, the balsamic vinegar you find in supermarkets is never made this way - which also explains the price difference. We tasted a 25-year-old vinegar and… how can I put this? It’s an unforgettable sweet-and-sour experience, bursting with complex, incredible flavors. 115 Euro for a 100mL small bottle. 

Tomorrow, we’re driving on to Parma. We’re sticking with the theme of food - which, after all, is one of the reasons why we chose Italy.

We have arrived in Bologna, where we will be spending a day off the bikes to rest a little tomorrow. Bologna is full of beautiful things to see - and even better things to eat. We’ve been riding pretty well overall so far, so a little break will do us good.

Today, we crossed the agricultural plains of the Po Valley. A bit monotonous, just as Liv’ had warned us. It’s peak rapeseed bloom season, and the wisteria climbing along farmhouse walls is in full flower - those were the highlights. Aside from that, the scenery wasn’t quite the postcard-perfect kind we’d been enjoying over the past few days. Instead, it was endless straight lines stretching across the fields, with hardly a curve or a turn in sight. So we embraced it and just… rode. A lot. Sometimes hitting speeds of 26 km/h - which, on fully loaded bikes like ours 🤪, gave us that slightly thrilling feeling of being absolute powerhouses.

I listen to music while I ride. A bit of everything really, from Nina Simone to Dave Matthews Band and various stuff, with a detour through my running playlist filled with slightly cheesy, energy-boosting classics like Antisocial, I Will Survive, or Eye of the Tiger. And then there are the long stretches of silence, which I enjoy just as much.

Cycling gives you time - lots of it - to think. The steady forward motion, the sustained effort, the ever-changing scenery… it all demands a kind of quiet, contemplative focus that becomes almost intoxicating. Anyone who loves cycling or running will know exactly what I mean. So what do we think about out there? Well, like the music - everything. From remembering to call the gardener to mow the lawn, to planning the next big project, solving problems, coming up with new ideas, how to improve and grow, choosing the next destination, thinking about work, family, friends, replaying fond memories…

But more than anything, I find myself thinking about the people who matter most in my life - the ones I love. What I want to share with them. Those who are here, and those who are no longer with us.

Today was wonderful. Although there can’t really be any bad decisions in our situation, I’m so happy we decided to bike all the way up to the Po Delta Regional Park. We left behind the deserted seaside resorts along the coast and ventured into a landscape of salt marshes and wetlands, reminiscent of the Camargue. We were immersed in nature and got to spot so many different kinds of birds.

The cherry on top was the flocks of flamingos. They’re amusing birds, with a unique kind of elegance - you don’t often get to see them this close. With their long necks, they spend most of their time with their heads in the water.

At a stop, an old Italian man on a bicycle told us we absolutely had to go see the basilica in Ravenna. How lucky we were to cross paths with him - we would have completely missed this gem otherwise. The basilica dates back to the 6th century and features a breathtaking mosaic apse. It’s entirely original and perfectly preserved, and it’s a UNESCO World Heritage site.

We ended the day in Comacchio, which looks like a little Venice. Tomorrow, we’re leaving the coast heading toward Bologna. I have such fond memories of visiting this city more than 25 years ago, when I had my very first Italian pizza with arugula, shared with my longtime friends Kira, Jess, and Jean.

We had a great ride today, cycling from Pesaro to Cervia, entering into the Emilia-Romagna region. Even though we stayed along the Adriatic coast under the same bright sun, the scenery kept changing. We passed kilometers of closed hotels and restaurants, completely deserted seaside resorts, peaceful pine forests, the rather unattractive city of Rimini… and then, charming little harbors with a touch of Venice or Burano - like in Cesenatico.

When we reached the beach in Riccione, we stumbled right into Europe’s largest beach volleyball festival: over 1,500 participants and 200 courts spread across the sand. Organized by Germans, it almost didn’t feel like Italy anymore! We had a picnic while watching the matches and trying to figure out the rules of the game.

Beach volleyball feels like more than just a sport - it’s a whole vibe. There’s lounge music playing, spectators wandering around in flip-flops and relaxed outfits, and players high-fiving after every single point. Still, there’s one thing about it that doesn’t sit quite right with me. The official dress code for women requires a bikini, with the bottom part no wider than 7 cm at the hips… you can imagine the style. The only exceptions are for religious reasons or if the temperature drops below 15°C. Meanwhile, men can wear shorts and a t-shirt. Honestly, there’s still a LOT of progress to be made when it comes to gender equality here. Apparently, many top volleyball players refuse to switch to beach volleyball just to avoid having to dress like that. And I’ve read that around 20% of Olympic beach volleyball footage focuses on women’s bodies - on their bottoms or breasts. Not exactly surprising… but still, it would be nice if the sports world could move a little further away from that kind of mindset.

Tomorrow we’re cycling towards Comacchio, our last day by the sea side. 

Today we cycled from Ancona to Pesaro. The weather is still treating us well - blue skies, not a cloud in sight, and not too hot. Honestly, conditions are so perfect we’ve stopped even wondering what the forecast is. After those first few stormy days, we’re feeling incredibly lucky.

The scenery along the coast hasn’t changed much, but the vibe has. The Italians are back at work, so the beaches are quieter now - though a few holiday makers remain, along with some brave souls already in their swimsuits.

Seaside resorts out of season have a special kind of charm. You’ve got people repainting or fixing up their little beach shacks in anticipation of summer, long rows of closed hotels and restaurants… it all feels slightly suspended in time, like the place is holding its breath before the rush.

For the past few days, we’ve been deep in debate about the next leg of the journey - specifically, when and how to cross the Italian “boot.” There are mountains and hills cutting through the country, and plenty more waiting up north before crossing into France. We’ve received all sorts of advice: Liv’ is advocating for a sporty route through Tuscany to avoid the supposedly “boring” Po Valley, Lobs is suggesting an Alpine crossing, and the locals… well, they say everything and its opposite.

In the end, we’ve decided to embrace the flat lands and explore places we don’t know yet. We’ve already been to Tuscany several times including by bike. And honestly, passing through Florence without buying shoes would be too frustrating for me… since my panniers are already full 🤪

So, we’re heading up towards the Po Delta Regional Park - apparently it looks like the Camargue, and April is the perfect time to spot flamingos (ChatGPT said so, so it must be true). We’ll leave the coast there, but won’t linger too long in the Po Valley before heading further north to cross over.

To be continued…🚴🏼🚴🏻‍♀️

We have reached Ancona today. The day felt a lot like yesterday: same sunshine, same scenery, and pretty much the same rhythm for this Easter Monday - except for one solid climb to reach Ancona… and today’s ice cream was double. 

Let’s talk a bit about gear for those who are curious. Having the right equipment really is half the job done. After several days of cycling, including the last two with over 80 km, we can now have some informed feedback.

First, the bikes: we chose steel touring bikes rather than aluminum ones, and honestly - they’re fantastic. They’re light, yet they absorb vibrations really well. We’re both super happy with them, and even after a long day, we don’t feel all that exhausted. They’re German bikes from the brand «Das Fahrrad». No surprise, the Germans really know their stuff when it comes to bikes.

When I ride long distances, I usually struggle with two things: my back and my seat. So we did our homework beforehand to avoid those issues, especially to be able to last for many days.

For my back: I went with a butterfly handlebar and a stem that raises things a bit higher, so I can ride in a more upright position. So far, it feels great.

As for the seat: we had saddles fitted to match our sit bone width (measured in-store!), with ergonomic gel padding. Absolutely amazing - no pain so far. On my hairdresser’s advice (he’s a big cycling fan), I also got «Assos» cycling shorts (a Swiss brand) with nice thick padding, and honestly - it’s night and day. My hairdresser is the best; every time I see him, we end up talking about cycling. He even gave me loads of shampoo samples so I’d have less to carry!

For panniers, I went super minimalist, so I’m doing well weight-wise. For now, we’re carrying all our camping gear, though we’re not sure we’ll actually use it. This time of year, B&Bs or hotels, are almost the same price as campsites…

Pascal, on the other hand, is carrying much heavier bags. Being the geek he is, he brought his laptop along 😂

But it does mean he can keep working on the blog! He put together a quick and simple version just before we left, and now he’s improving it along the way and adding new features. Many of you have asked about being able to leave comments and reactions - stay tuned, that’s coming soon! He just does not want to commit to a date 🤪

Today we spent the whole day riding along a seaside cycle path — something quite exceptional. We left the Abruzzo region and entered Marche. For cycling enthusiasts, we recommend this area: part of the route follows the Adriatic Cycle Route (Ciclovia Adriatica 6). It’s possible to ride for several days almost entirely on dedicated bike paths, passing seaside resorts with the deep blue of the Adriatic always nearby. Quite a treat.

Cycling gives us a small glimpse into the everyday challenges faced by people in wheelchairs. And in that respect, there’s still real progress to be made when it comes to accessibility — in cities, on sidewalks, in hotels, and in train stations…

Easter is a very important celebration in Italy, almost as significant as Christmas. It was delightful to observe the rhythm of the day from our bikes. In the morning, we watched elegantly dressed people stopping by pastry shops to pick up beautifully wrapped cakes, then strolling through town in lively groups — with strollers, rollerbladers, joggers, and families gathering outside restaurants, greeting each other with warm embraces. We had to weave our way through the crowds, ringing our bells constantly.

Between 2 and 5 p.m., we felt as if we had the world to ourselves — everyone was at home enjoying long Sunday meals with family, and the streets were completely quiet. Then, around 5 p.m., people reappeared, drifting back out for relaxed walks along the sea, chatting animatedly — all dressed in their slightly flamboyant Italian style.

Easter here is truly a moment of togetherness, celebrated by people of all generations.

Today was a smooth, carefree day. Leaving Termoli, we entered into the Abruzzo region, heading toward Pescara. The sun has returned, and it seems it plans to stay for good now. I was finally able to enjoy my first Italian gelato… and I have a feeling it’s only the beginning of a long, delicious affair.

The light along the shoreline after the storm is dazzling. Yet the land still bears its traces: pools of still water lingering in the fields, branches scattered across the beach. Most surprising of all was the snow visible on the mountains - the sign of how much rain fell, and how cold it had been. We cycled along a path said to be among the most beautiful in Italy, laid on a former railway line, winding between cliffs and sea, dotted with fishermen’s huts standing on stilts.

Last night, we shared a video call with our two children across the Atlantic - Louison in Montreal, and Anouk, living an extraordinary chapter with a wonderful family in Powell River, British Columbia. It felt so special to be gathered from different corners of the world, sharing our stories as though we were all seated together at the dinner table back home. How fortunate we are, to be able to do what we do, all of us.

Tomorrow, we leave Pescara toward Ancona, following the curve of the sea and its seaside towns for a while. What will be the next gelato flavor? Life is hard. 

The city of San Severo isn’t particularly remarkable. And yet, something truly wonderful happened to us there. This morning at 8 a.m., a man and a woman stood in the street beneath our Bed & Breakfast window and sang opera. Waking up to that was simply incredible. I don’t know if it was just for me 🤪, or if people were celebrating the end of the storm, or perhaps Easter festivities - but it was such an unusual and magical moment.

Easter is an important time in Italy, where Catholic traditions run deep. On this Good Friday, there are processions in most towns.

Today, we decided to get back on our bikes now that the rain had stopped. In hindsight, not our best idea. We quickly realized it would be tough, with fierce winds left over from the storm (its name is Erminio). We tried to cut things short by heading to a train station - but the road leading there was flooded. So we had no choice but to keep cycling along a bigger road for 43 km, straight into the wind. That was… challenging.

In the end, we took the train to Termoli. Flooding is everywhere, and the sea is still raging.

Because of the storm, a bridge collapsed over the Frigno River - right where we were supposed to pass tomorrow. So we’ll take the train again to get past that section, and then continue cycling on to Pescara. The forecast promises a spring-like weekend, with warm, sunny weather expected for the next two weeks!

We had chosen to start in southern Italy because it’s supposed to be sunny, even in early April. And yet, we found ourselves caught in this storm in Puglia - a rare weather event for the region. It’s not the first time this has happened to us. When we cycled in Sweden with Anouk, in Denmark, in Sardinia, on the Aeolian Islands, and in Malta - we encountered storms that locals said they had never seen before. Are we just unlucky, or are extreme weather events becoming the new normal?

Either way, it’s all part of the journey - constantly adapting to whatever the weather brings. I love that our only concerns each day are where we’ll sleep, what we’ll eat, and which route we’ll take. I really cherish this way of living in the present moment, the freedom of depending on nothing more than the wind and the rain. It’s a true luxury, and a joy I’m deeply grateful for.

It’s still pouring in Puglia - today it’s turned into a full-blown storm. So we’re carrying on by train. That’s the joy of traveling: no constraints, just following the wind and our whims. We simply looked at the map and came across a town called… San Severo. We couldn’t possibly pass that by! I had no idea there was a place anywhere that shared my name. Apparently, Saint Severino performed miracles there - twice, no less. So now we’re curious to see what the town of “Severine” has in store for us. The storm should ease off tomorrow, and we might be able to get back on the saddle.

I’m constantly amazed by how Italians have shaped their lives around what is truly good in life.

Food, first of all. The simplest tomato, with just a drizzle of olive oil, coffee, wine, cheese, pasta - anything, really - even in its most modest form, is simply divine.

Art, in all its forms. Italians excel at expressing it - music, sculpture, painting… the whole country feels like a living, open-air museum.

And then there’s style: clothes, shoes, hairstyles, accessories - bags, glasses, everything. There’s no denying it, Italians have a natural elegance. They understand the pure expression of beauty.

Today, I discovered a traditional dessert from Puglia called “the tit of the nun.” It’s a delicate, airy sponge filled with the most exquisite vanilla cream. There are no words to describe its sensuality or its heavenly taste. When I experience something like that- whether it’s tasting this dessert, listening to beautiful music, or standing before a painting - I can’t help but feel that some form of divinity must exist, to have given humans the ability to create and enjoy such profound pleasures here on earth.

Today is a no-cycling day.

It’s absolutely pouring in Puglia - more rain than they’ve ever seen, apparently. So we’re taking the train to Bari, a place we don’t know yet. I’ve heard there’s a beautiful cathedral there.

Last night in Serra Gambetta was fantastic. Beyond the exceptional food, we met some incredibly warm and open people. There are moments in life when you meet strangers and yet feel an immediate, genuine connection - last night was one of those moments.

We found ourselves around the table with Italians, French, Germans, and Americans, sharing common views about how the world after Trump feels increasingly chaotic. Tom was telling us about his plans to develop an exit strategy from the U.S. and move to Italy, as life there is becoming almost unbearable. It made me wonder whether I would do the same if Marine Le Pen or Jordan Bardella were to be elected in France and implement changes that could take years to undo. That’s what seems to be happening in the U.S. Trump’s policies are having a deep and lasting impact on everyday life, with reforms that, in many ways, stifle a free and cultivated human spirit.

We also talked about how humanity seems to keep repeating the same mistakes, over and over, at the expense of its own happiness.

I know if I were to meet Tom again in a few years, it would be like we met yesterday and we would continue our discussion where we left it. Have you ever noticed that life often offers like-minded people to cross paths more than once. When we said goodbye, we said: « see you next time! »

Travel is also about this: encounters, shared reflections, introspection as much as discovery and adventure.

Severine

But when it does, the grounds flood - too dry to absorb it - and the roads aren’t designed to cope with that much water. Apparently Puglia never experienced so much rain at this time of the year. Schools are closed because of the bad weather. So it is just happening when we are here on bikes.

Our first day was… memorable. It started in Brindisi, where assembling the bikes after the train journey took far longer than expected. We had ambitiously planned quite a few kilometres for day 1, but it didn’t take long to realise that wasn’t going to happen - especially once the rain began pouring down with real conviction.

So we took the train to Fasano to shorten the ride to our destination: an agriturismo near Castellana Di Grotte that we know and love. The journey from there was something else - at times, the water level reached our pedals. We retreated to larger roads, where passing cars made sure we were thoroughly splashed, just in case the rain wasn’t doing a sufficient job already.

We finished the day soaked, cold. In any case, we started to enjoy the wonders of Puglia. For lunch, we had real pinsa, enormous, topped with fresh stracciatella - heaven.

Tonight, we’re staying at the agriturismo Serragambetta (we highly recommend this place), and we know that dinner will be another heaven. 

March 30th - Departure from home

Here we are. Pascal and I are setting off to cross the whole of Italy by bike, a bike trip like that we wanted to do for a long time. With the kids away for a while, and after some sad losses last year, we decided to fulfil one of our dreams and enjoy every moment before we’re too old or unable.

We've been planning this for quite some time - Pascal did most of it actually :-) New bikes, new equipment, even Pascal built the covers for the bikes (Anouk was contributing by doing the sewing!). Such covers are mandatory to take bikes on the train. Plan is to leave from Brindisi by bike on March 31st and go back home biking. We will be going down there today by Train Geneva-Milan-Brindisi with a night train. We will bike approximately 2300 KM until the Lac the Paladru near Chambéry in France, to attend a big Party by Cécile and Boud with many of our friends on the last days, early May. This will give us something to look for when we will be wondering why we are doing this.

We know how we leave today, we don't know How we will be at the end 🤪 let's see!

The journey is the destination.